A day trip to Sintra is probably one of the most popular activities to do when visiting Lisbon. I did a ton of research about it and read lots of blog posts, but I still felt a little unprepared. A lot of that was because I wasn't sure what to expect in terms of physical exertion. That aside, however, I still wasn't exactly sure how to plan my day. So in this post, I'll let you know what we did right... and what we did wrong.
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HITS
MISSES
Hit: Sintra is absolutely beautiful!
Honestly, you can't go wrong on your visit to Sintra. You'll see some amazing architecture and beautiful landscapes. You'll get to be part of a UNESCO heritage site for a few hours. Sintra truly is a must see when you visit Portugal. Even though I know it's tempting to want to maximize your visit, it's also so nice just to soak in the atmosphere. I felt so grateful to even just be there.
Miss: Left too late in the day
We didn't realize it at the time, but we started our day off wrong with breakfast. Of course, this depends on your perspective (it was a great breakfast!), but it meant that we didn't get on the train to Sintra until after 10 am.
The train from Rossio station in Lisbon to Sintra takes about an hour. Then it was about 30 minutes to bus up to the entrance to Pena Palace, so we didn't really start our day trip until about half way through the day. I don't think I realized that all of the castles close around 5:30 pm, so that only left us with about 5 hours and I was hoping to visit at least 4 castles. Yeah... we definitely did not plan that right!
The Solution:
If you want to optimize your day trip and visit more castles, leave early! Plan to arrive in Sintra when the 434 and 435 buses start running, at 9 am.
Miss: Toured the interior of Pena Palace
Now this might be controversial, but I wish we had skipped the interior of Pena Palace. Of course it was lovely and extravagant and full of incredible architectural detail. BUT... it was also full of people! We visited in late October, so I had hoped to miss the bigger crowds. I wonder if that's even really possible in Pena.
Touring the inside Pena Palace made me feel like a sheep being herded into a corral. It was just a slow march in the midst of crowds to see the different rooms on an established path. I wish we had spent the time visiting one of the other palaces instead.
The Solution:
Just skip it. Enjoy the whimsical tile and colors of the exterior. Linger in the courtyards and appreciate the views. Then move on to one of the other amazing sites.
Hit: Pena Palace and Quinta de Regaleira
Sintra is made up of five incredible sights: National Palace of Sintra, Pena Palace, Quinta de Regaleira, Moorish Castle, and Monserrate Palace. But when you think of Sintra, you probably picture Pena Palace with it's colorful contrasting facades and tall towers. Because of this, I do think Pena Palace is a required stop during your visit to Sintra. However, like I said above, I don't think you need to tour inside if you would rather visit more of the five sites.
The gothic spires and detailed windows of Quinta de Regaleira just speak to my soul! Not to mention the grounds are full of gardens, fake ruins, ceremonial wells, etc. I mean... it's just my aesthetic, so it was a must-see for me. While I would have loved to visit the other three castles, I'm very happy with the two we saw. And now I have a reason to return.
Miss: A lot of time on buses
When we arrived in Sintra, we took the bus up to Pena Palace first. It was quite a long ride! After an hour or two at the palace, we were hungry for lunch, so we took the bus 30 minutes back to the train station to get some burgers. Then, we took a different bus to Quinta de Regaleira, which was also a fairly long ride up a winding one-way road. Then we also spent a while waiting for buses to come, and at one point, one of the buses was too full, so we had to wait for the next bus.
I always forget to include wait times in my travel plans. What about you?
The Solution:
Double-check to see if the bus really is necessary. I found out after that it took longer to take the bus to Quinta de Regaleira from the train station, than if we had eaten lunch in town and then walked there.
Hit: Shuttle to Pena Palace
Taking the small shuttle bus to Pena Palace was totally worth it to me! Not only did it help save my legs the hike, but it also helped ease my anxiety about making it to Pena Palace in time for our timed ticket. If you want to spend more time walking around Pena Park, I would recommend doing so after visiting the castle when you don't have time restrictions in the back of your mind.
Miss: Didn't bring any snacks!
Sintra is a big day trip! You'll be gone for hours, riding trains and buses, and doing lots of walking and hiking and stairs. It makes sense that you'll need that extra burst of energy that a granola bar or trail mix can provide.
Although we had a hardy breakfast before going to Sintra, it had been three or four hours by the time we were done touring Pena Palace, and we were ready for a snack. We still wanted to visit the Moorish Castle (which is nearby), so we didn't want to venture back into town. Pena has a terrace cafe, but after waiting in a line that didn't move for over 20 minutes, we decided we were hungry enough for lunch. This meant we had to go all the way back into town and didn't have time to visit the castle.
The Solution:
Bring some snacks! Or you could even pack a picnic lunch to enjoy in Pena Park. There's actually a large park surrounding Pena Palace with a fern garden, view points, fountains, and statues.
Final thoughts...
You will have a magical time in Sintra, whether you visit just one castle or hit up all five sites. Having realistic expectations always makes it easier for me, so just keep in mind that there will be crowds, there will be influencers trying to get the perfect photo, there will be waiting for buses, and there will be long lines.
But you can walk over the walls of a great fortress, descend the depths of an old well, climb ruins, and fantasize about the glamorous life at court, so it's all worth it!